Turkey part 2: Westcoast; Izmir, Pergamon and lonely places

December 29^th 2021

Istanbul – Gölyazi Merkez, Turkey

Miles: 80

Miles total: 5’910

Finally, we were able to be on the road again! After 18 days in Istanbul, and 5 of them isolated in a camper (Covid), we were more than ready to leave the city life behind. The constant noise level of the city has made us tired and we long for the peace of nature. Since we really didn't feel like the extremely wearying city traffic, we preferred to take the one-hour ferry across the Sea of Marmara to Yalova, which departed directly opposite from our place. While we were waiting in the car to get on the ferry, a young Turk who probably works at the port spoke to us. He complimented our camper, told us a warm welcome to Turkey and gave us a chocolate bar. We were very happy about the warm, short encounter and we realized once again that even the smallest gesture can make a big difference. From Yalova we went south to the industrial city of Bursa. From afar we saw the snowy mountain Uludag (2543 m), where by the way you can take the longest gondola in the world to the most popular ski resort in Turkey :-).

December 30^th 2021

Gölyazi Merkez – Alibey Adasi, Turkey

Miles: 160

Miles total: 6’070

A few pelicans crossed our path as we set off in the morning. A good start into a new day :-). 

Continue south on an almost empty freeway. After crossing the bridge that leads to Alibey Island, we ended up on a potholed path that led us to our sleeping place. At least, shaking the Iveco for 40 minutes was worth it and we parked next to the sea, away from the road, and were surrounded by olive trees.

December 31^st 2021 – January 1^st 2022

Alibey Adasi, Turkey

We have definitely found the peace we longed for in this beautiful spot :-). We spent two relaxing days, enjoying long walks in the sparsely populated area of the island. 

Part of this area is taken up by olive groves, the other is covered by low bushes. There is also a tiny abandoned village with small stone houses and several ruins. 

January 2^nd 2022

Alibey Adasi – Bergama, Turkey

Miles: 50

Miles total: 6’120

It's always a shame to leave a nice lonely place. It was the same this time when we drove from the island to the mainland. After a few miles, we landed in the coastal town of Ayvalik. If you go into the back streets of the village, you will discover the beauty of the ancient Greek town. Renovated stone houses, old Greek Orthodox churches converted into mosques and lively little streets and squares make Ayvalik special. The Greek population of this town (and other areas) became victims of the so-called population exchange between Greece and Turkey. This was a forced resettlement contractually agreed after World War I and the subsequent Greco-Turkish War (1922). This forced resettlement affected all Greek Orthodox nationals of today's Turkey, as well as all Muslim nationals of Greece.

We enjoyed our lunch in a sympathetic little restaurant, which is in a vaulted cellar. Of course, we had to try the specialty of Ayvalik. A toast with cheese and special sausage. In addition to the toast, everything else was also very tasty :-).

On a village square we spotted a fully packed bicycle hung with several flags. Right after that we got to know Frank from Germany. Crazy guy rides his bike from Dresden, Germany to Hiroshima, Japan!

www.dresden-hiroshima.jimdofree.com We sat down with him and chatted about everything. In our small circle there were also two Turks with whom we laughed and talked. As almost always, you will be invited to tea :-). A custom that makes us always happy. The two Turks, father (75) and son, also complained to us about the current situation in their country. currency crisis and inflation. Everything is getting more and more expensive. For example, the price of gasoline increased by almost 20% in one day! We too notice this. Within 4 weeks we filled up twice with 32 gallons (120L). The first time we paid 80$, the second time 115$.

We then moved on through the town to see a few more sights before we enjoyed the last rays of sunshine with a beer.

Unfortunately, the nearby campsite was closed and so we decided to drive all the way to Bergama in the dark.

January 3^rd 2022

Bergama - Foça, Turkey

Miles: 70

Miles total: 6’190

Unfortunately, the official space on the campsite in Bergama was not accessible and we had to spend the night in the driveway, which was right next to a busy road. We're really not picky about noise and sleeping, but here the trucks thundering past late into the night robbed us of our sleep. Luckily it was only for one night. And we were also able to do the necessary emptying of the toilet and refilling the water. In the course of the morning we headed for our actual destination: The Acropolis of Bergama, said to be one of the most impressive archaeological sites in Turkey.

The ancient Greco-Roman city of Pergamon is perched on a hill next to modern-day Bergama. The city's heyday was around the 3rd and 2nd centuries BC. Today you can comfortably go up the castle hill with a gondola lift. The ruins of the ancient city are scattered all over the hill, but few of the structures have survived the ravages of time. Of these, the remains of the Trajan Temple, which stands at the top of the hill and impresses with its high marble columns and associated reliefs, certainly stand out.

Today only a foundation remains of what is probably the most well-known building in Pergamon. It is the monumental Zeus altar, the famous Pergamon altar, whose historically valuable friezes were excavated by German archaeologists at the end of the 19th century and transported to Germany relatively quickly. The reconstruction of the altar with the original friezes can be seen today in the Pergamon Museum in Berlin. The export of these works of art is a controversial issue today. We walked the way back and since the complex is very spacious, we were able to marvel at other parts of the ancient city all the way down. The stones of the ruined buildings are lying around everywhere and we tried to imagine what these buildings must have looked like 2,300 years ago. A digital model of the city helped us a little :-). Very impressed we left the ancient site after a good two hours. Our next destination was the coast again, where we looked for a place to stay. Before we were rewarded with a beautiful mountainous coastal road, we first had to cross a ugly industrial area with refineries as well as steel and concrete plants. We found a wonderful parking space for our apartment on wheels on a small peninsula near the village of Foça :-).

January 4^th 2022

Foça, Turkey

Wake up in the Iveco, get up, lower the blinds and watch the beautiful sea while you eat breakfast. A successful start to the day. Daily program: explore the town of Foça. On foot, we reached the center after 30 minutes along the sea. A cozy place with Greek flair. The front of the houses was created by the Greek population, who were finally expelled from the region around 1920.

January 5^th 2022

Foça – Izmir, Turkey

Miles: 60

Miles total: 6’250

This morning we were ready to leave a little earlier. We wanted to quickly go to the city of Izmir to apply for a visa for a longer stay in Turkey. This difficult story is described in the next day’s report. Shortly before noon, the Iveco heads for a parking lot in the center of the 4 million population city of Izmir. Due to a lack of space, the cars are completely lined up so that nobody can simply drive away :-). That's why you have to hand in the key so the parking lot guys can drive the necessary vehicles back and forth to get them out. Well, just imagine, all our belongings, cameras, tablets, clothes, everything is in the car and we give complete strangers the car key. A little queasy, we walked away and wondered if our journey was over. But of course it was not over :-). Everything worked out good and later in the afternoon we drove to a not really attractive campsite. But at least we have a place to be, electricity, toilet, water etc...

January 6^th – 10^th 2022

Izmir, Turkey

Part 1, Izmir in general

Part 2, organize visa for Turkey

Part 1, Izmir General:

There is also a lot to discover in the third largest city in Turkey. Today Izmir is a modern, liberal city and an important business location. Historically it was an important port city of different eras and between the 17th and early 20th centuries a multicultural city with large Levantine, Greek and Armenian populations. In the Turkish War of Independence of 1922, however, a large part of these ethnic groups were expelled or murdered and unfortunately most of their buildings were destroyed.

During our various trips to the immigration office, we repeatedly crossed the large, lively bazaar district. The traditional colorful shopping streets with their numerous shops, restaurants, coffee houses, market stalls and mosques in between are always fascinating. A part of the bazaar is also located in the caravanserai built in 1744. But all the impressions also make you tired and so we were happy to stroll along the long modern beach promenade from time to time to clear our heads a bit. From here you can see the dense sea of houses that stretches almost endlessly over the hills.

A popular meeting point is the Konak Square in the heart of Izmir, where a small but fine clock tower stands, a landmark of Izmir. In addition to many people, flocks of pigeons also gather here. Not coincidentally, because in the small square there are about 10 small stalls lined up where pigeon feed (probably old bread) is sold in cups. We notice that the majority of the sellers are old people. The large cups are sold for 30 cents, the small ones for half that. We wonder why the old people have to pursue this, probably not very profitable, business? The injustice in the world makes us think again and again.

We use a rainy day to visit the art history museum, which houses a rich collection of masterpieces from the country's ancient sites.

Here you can walk and jog under tall palm trees and certainly much more in summer. A small theme park provides a bit of action. Due to the time of year, however, the park was sparsely populated. Above all, how could it be otherwise, we noticed the omnipresent cats that roamed around the whole park.

Another attraction is in the Karatas district, where the Jewish population once lived. Here, in 1907, a Jewish banker had an elevator “Asansör” built to facilitate trade between the Karatas district and the coast. We also let ourselves be chauffeured up the now modern lift and enjoyed the view over the city with a glass of tea. The city's largest synagogue, built in the same year, is also nearby. Embedded in a row of houses, protected by a wall and a locked gate, we almost overlooked the inconspicuous building.

Of course, we also found cozy neighborhoods in Izmir with trendy cafes and restaurants, where we always treated ourselves to tea or coffee or something delicious to eat. Colorful crowds of young people cavort in the modern shopping streets.

Part 2, organize visa Turkey:

On the day of arrival in Izmir, we went to the office of the Immigration Service. Unfortunately, no distinction is made here whether you are simply a tourist or whether you want to live in Turkey for a longer period of time! So, we have to apply for a full residence permit!

We were then immediately sent out again because we didn't have an appointment. With a website in hand, we got back in the camper and filled out the online form. Already on the first of 5 pages we got stuck and shuffled back to the center to have biometric photos taken. We then had to upload this online and were finally able to continue filling out the application. We got stuck again on one of the points. At the permanent residential address. What do you declare if you live in the camper? Surely the address of the campsite of Izmir :-). Unfortunately, the system did not accept the address! So, we gave the next lower street number and were able to continue. We were also a little confused by the health insurance company because we couldn't enter ours. We got a confirmation by phone that we are insured in Turkey. When we had filled everything out, we were finally able to make an appointment for the next day.

Now the next day has arrived and we are armed with printed applications, photos, passports, vehicle documents, health insurance confirmations and bank statements. Not everything went as hoped in the office of the nice lady! It is required that you have a Turkish health insurance company! In addition, a certificate of residential address must be available. And last but not least, of course, proof that you have paid the visa fees. Our thoughts fluctuated between "Can we get it?" to "Yes, We can!" to "Oh, let's just drop it!". Right next to the immigration office, there were several offices that offer health insurance and help with other matters. So, we ended up at Erhan's office. We have to take health insurance for a year, said the older, skinny man with a gray ponytail. The costs are about 180$. Actually very cheap compared to the 8,000$ in Switzerland, but it still goes against the grain to be double insured! When we had a problem with the address, Erhan offered to help us. He will explain over the phone to the campsite owner in Turkish what is required on the document! Thankfully, we retreated to the campsite 6 miles (10km) away. Once there, we got the owner to call Erhan. An hour later we had a wonderful certificate with a stamp, signature and all the necessary information that we are living with them on the campsite :-).

Then day 3 followed. With the certificate of accommodation, we went to Erhan's office and we got health insurance. Now to the next step. After initial difficulties, we finally ended up at the right place to pay for the visa application on the third try. Our budget was stretched by another 280$. And back to immigration. Again, not everything worked at first! As with our attempt, the system did not accept the address of the campsite because there is no building registered there! After all, it is a campsite :-). The nice woman from the authorities explained to us that we should take a hotel and ask for such a certificate of accommodation there. We got fed up with the whole thing, but we didn't want to give up because we've already spent a lot of money! With desperation written all over our faces, the staff took pity on us and tried to find a solution. The woman called the campsite owner and asked if the address next door was also part of the campsite. The owner confirmed this and so this address was entered into the system and we were over the moon when we received the temporary residency permits. In the next few weeks we should now receive our Turkish identity cards :-). What an ordeal to be allowed to stay in the country a few months longer!

January 11^th 2022

Izmir – Çeşme, Turkey

Miles: 60

Miles total: 6’310

Since we will soon be able to pick up our Turkish identity cards and a parcel from Switzerland in Izmir, we didn't make any big leaps. Nevertheless, we didn't want to stay in the city and after buying a lot of food we drove 90 km west to a lonely beach near the tourist towns of Çeşme and Alaçati. In Alaçati, the streets were almost flooded by the heavy rain and water gushed up from all shafts. 

January 12^th – January 20^th 2022

Çeşme, Turkey

Miles: 40

Miles total: 6’350

We really liked this pitch and it is definitely a case for the top ten of the most beautiful places to stay! The dreamlike place is outside of a village, on a still almost undeveloped part of the coast. And the best part: we mostly had the place to ourselves. Of course, this is mainly due to the low season and the correspondingly cool temperatures. Most of the time there was also a cold wind, which definitely made it impossible to sit comfortably outside despite the pure sunshine. But since we were always comfortably warm in the camper thanks to the insulated cabin and a super heater, the nasty climate didn't bother us much.

We enjoyed relaxing and letting our souls dangle, went for walks along the beach and collected rubbish, practiced juggling, read travel literature, cooked delicious menus, but also worked a lot on our travel reports and the homepage.

Our walks took us over rocky stretches of coast, but also to wonderful sandy beaches where there were some beach clubs that were currently abandoned. As everywhere on the Turkish coast, there are a number of holiday home complexes that are like small, self-contained settlements and all the houses look identical. During our nine-day stay on the beach, we once took a trip to the nearby villages of Çeşme and Alaçati. Both very touristy places in summer, but very pleasant to visit at the moment. Unlike many other popular resort towns, Çesme still has a local population that keeps the village alive even in winter.

We continued to the historical part of Alaçati, again a former Greek village. Long known only for the first-class olive oil and as a top destination for windsurfing, today you can find expensive boutique hotels in the former Greek stone houses, glamorous dresses and sunglasses are offered in the market street.

The village has become a hotspot for the free-spending middle class. In the off-season, many shops and restaurants were closed. Good for us, because that way the charming renovated stone houses in the narrow streets came to shine. On the main square, we found an open restaurant where we got good but overpriced food. The way back to the car took us past the four beautiful old windmills. After this excursion, we spent a night at a campsite located in Alaçati on the windsurfing beach, which was also deserted at this time of year. Here we were able to do the necessary supplies and disposal. The next day we went to the beach again.

January 21^st 2022

Çeşme – Izmir, Turkey

Miles: 60

Miles total: 6’410

This morning it was clear that we would drive back to Izmir.

January 22^nd – 23^rd 2022

Izmir, Turkey

Our parcel from Switzerland actually arrived on Saturday. Joy prevails :-).

January 24^th 2022

Izmir - Kuşadası, Turkey

Miles: 60

Miles total: 6’470

Now we definitely said goodbye to Izmir and the extremely nice people from the campsite, who helped us with the identity cards and the parcel from Switzerland.

We drove a bit south past an endless number of holiday home settlements and not very attractive towns. Since the cold weather will last for a while and it will be 12°F (-10°C) for a few more days in our destination after next, Pamukkale, we will spend some time on a beach before visiting the nearby archaeological site of Ephesus.