Kyrgyzstan
October 4th 2011: Karakul, Tajikistan – Osh, Kyrgyzstan
Driven distance on October 4th 2011: 300km (190 miles)
Driven distance total: 16’260km (10’100 miles)
So, once again crossing a border. This time between Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan at an altitude of 4300m (14’100 feet). Duration of the story 1.5 hours, 20 minutes of them because the Guys at the border were eating lunchJ. We bribed the guys a little bit. Instead of money they got 3 Swiss postcards, one dose of washing detergent, 3.50 Swiss franc coins, cigarettes and 3 wire ties! All the border guys were really friendly and also accepted it when we said no. The one guy asked for a DVD, but I told him no. The car was searched more for Souvenirs for the guys then for drugs;). This border is also used for smuggling out opium from Afghanistan. For this reason there was also a German Shepard that has seen the Landrover from the inside.
Now to the rest of the trip.
The entire Pamir Highway was quite nice, but until this point not really breathtaking. Then there was the change at the border. The panorama in direction south was spectacular and unforgettable!! Great mountains, terrific cliffs and glaciers, simply beautiful!!
The trip led us through the village Sary-Tash, where also opium smugglers are crossing through. First we wanted to stay there, then decided to continue until Osh. Osh is the second biggest city in Kyrgyzstan. The scenery before Osh was fantastic. Red cliffs, strange mountains.. just great!
In Osh we found a reasonable hotel for 20$ for the room per night. After all those homestays it felt really good to have again a real hotel room.
October 5th 2011: Osh, Kyrgyzstan
Driven distance on October 5th 2011: 130km (0 miles)
Driven distance total: 16’260km (10’100 miles)
Since we have more then enough time, we didn’t do any sightseeing. In the morning we bought some Kyrgyz SIM-cards to get online.
At lunchtime we ate a restaurant called California. There were burgers, fajitas, salads etc. available. The salads were named after famous movie actorsJ. It was really good to eat something different.
October 6th 2011: Osh, Kyrgyzstan
Driven distance on October 5th 2011: 0km (0 miles)
Driven distance total: 16’260km (10’100 miles)
Today we walked to the view point of Osh and finally did some workoutJ. We had a great view of Osh and also to the nearby Muslim cemetery. As almost all cemeteries, also this one was in terrible condition.
For lunch we went to nice beer garden and had some Spaghetti.
October 7th 2011: Osh, Kyrgyzstan
Driven distance on October 7th 2011: 0km (0 miles)
Driven distance total: 16’260km (10’100 miles)
Since a very long time it was raining that day. We were not really used to rain anymore. We ate as almost every day in the restaurant California. Because of the rain we visited some inside sights. First a three storied Yurt and after that the historical museum. Both of them were not really breathtaking but a good way to spend the time inside. For lunch we went directly back to the “California” to get some spaghettis.
October 8th 2011: Osh, Kyrgyzstan
Driven distance on October 8th 2011: 70km (40 miles)
Driven distance total: 16’330km (10’150 miles)
Since it quite cozy here in Osh we decided to stay a few days more and do some smaller trips during the days. We drove 30km (20 miles) to the town of Karasu. This place used to be one small city and is now, because of the fall of the Soviet Union, separated between the two countries Uzbekistan und Kyrgyzstan. There was also a really big market where we strolled around for several hours. It was the best market we have seen so far.
October 9th 2011: Osh, Kyrgyzstan
Driven distance on October 9th 2011: 60km (40 miles)
Driven distance total: 16’390km (10’180 miles)
Actually we wanted to visit in a village 25km (15 miles) away some Petroglyphs as well as a cave. Since we couldn’t find the sights we drove back and the Landrover got its first showerJ! The car got washed for over an hour! It was also quite necessary!
When we were back in Osh, we have seen a strange building in the cliffs and went to see what it might be. It was a museum built into a cave, was quite nice.
October 10th 2011: Osh – Tash-Kömür, Kyrgyzstan
Driven distance on October 10th 2011: 260km (160 miles)
Driven distance total: 16’650km (10’340 miles)
Now finally we departed from Osh. On the way all of a sudden a car (old Lada) passed us and waved with the hand that we should stop on the right side of the road. We felt it was a little bit strange since it wasn’t a police car. For ten minutes he passed us several times and tried to stop us. At a busy gas station we finally stopped. The old car had Russian license plates (in Kyrgyzstan!) and the man who got out of the car was wearing a uniform with several stars on his shoulders. He mentioned that he is a “Captain” in the army. He was simply interested in who we are and where we are going, just for his own curiosityJ.
In Tash-Kömür we did find the hotel quite fast, but it was not really that nice at all! We then gave the hotel man 4$ and parked on his backyard.
October 11th 2011: Tash-Kömür – Sary-Chelek, Kyrgyzstan
Driven distance on October 11th 2011: 90km (60 miles)
Driven distance total: 16’740km (10’400 miles)
Since almost all of Kyrgyzstan is very mountainous, we went to check out one of the mountain lakes, by car. Already the drive up there was very scenic. On the way we have seen little red rock formations like in Utah, really special. The first part of the road was very good, but it has changed. For the final 15km (10 miles) it took us one hour. Arrived up there, away from any civilization, we have reached the lake. Since a nice spot for the night was across a creek, the Land rover received a under body washJ. We had it quite cozy and cooked us something good for dinner. We thought that the lake was nice, but not really worth the 4-hour trip. A few hours later we have found out with our GPS that we were actually 1km away from the big lake. We were at another small lakeJ.
October 12th 2011: Sary-Chelek – Tash-Kömür, Kyrgyzstan
Driven distance on October 12th 2011: 100km (60 miles)
Driven distance total: 16’840km (10’460 miles)
First thing we did, was driving to the real lake. That lake was really nice, spectacular and beautiful surrounded by mountains and cliffs. We had some breakfast and checked out the lake. We have spent several hours at the lake and the weather got luckily better and better.
In the late afternoon we went back to the same hotel as the previous night, to the same parking place in the backyard. We gave again 4$ to the boss and we could even the shower in the hotel.
October 13th 2011: Tash-Kömür – Toktogul, Kyrgyzstan
Driven distance on October 13th 2011: 190km (120 miles)
Driven distance total: 17’030km (10’580 miles)
In the morning we checked out a rotten suspension bridge in Tash-Kömür. As in many of the countries in this world are many buildings and the infrastructure in desolate condition. The road in direction Bishkek went nicely along a valley and dams for hydroelectric plants. The landscape was astonishing, and the quality of the road for once great.
October 14th 2011: Toktogul, Kyrgyzstan
Driven distance on October 14th 2011: 0km (0 miles)
Driven distance total: 17’030km (10’580 miles)
We stayed the entire day in this small town and checked out the local marked. Otherwise was not too much going on.
October 15th 2011: Toktogul – Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan
Driven distance on October 15th 2011: 300km (190 miles)
Driven distance total: 17’330km (10’770 miles)
Now we landed surprisingly and unwanted in the capital of Kyrgyzstan. We originally wanted to take a “big” road south of the capital, but when we have seen the condition of the other road we changed our mind. The bad road would have gone for 200km (120 miles) on rough gravel ground.
The road on that day led us over 2, 3000m (10’000 feet) high, passes. On top of the passes we had the first few light snowflakes. In Bishkek on the other hand, were the temperatures really nice.
And finally we got something else to eat in BishkekJ!
October 16th 2011: Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan
Driven distance on October 16th 2011: 0km (0 miles)
Driven distance total: 17’330km (10’770 miles)
Since we will be in Bishkek again within one week, we didn’t take the effort to check out the sights. We strolled a bit in the city and ate good food for lunch and dinner.
October 17th 2011: Bishkek – Balykchy, Kyrgyzstan
Driven distance on October 17th 2011: 190km (120 miles)
Driven distance total: 17’520km (10’890 miles)
The trip to the lake Issyk-Kul went well. The lake is the second biggest mountain lake in the world. Every year, mainly in summer time, are 1 million tourists coming to the lake, mainly people from Kazakhstan and Russia. The weather is currently changing to winter. When the sun is shining it is warm, but the snow is getting fairly close. In the town of Balykchy we asked a policeman for direction to a hotel which we couldn’t find. Instead of information he wanted to give us a fine for not wearing the safety belts. After some whining he let us goJ.
October 18th 2011: Balykchy – Cholpon-ata, Kyrgyzstan
Driven distance on October 18th 2011: 90km (60 miles)
Driven distance total: 17’610km (10’940 miles)
Now we are at the biggest tourist place on the lake. Since there are almost no tourists anymore, we found a very nice hotel close to the lake for 35$ per night for the room. Many of the restaurants are already closed because of no tourists. We enjoyed in the afternoon the sun on our balcony of the hotel.
October 19th 2011: Cholpon-ata, Kyrgyzstan
Driven distance on October 19th 2011: 20km (10 miles)
Driven distance total: 17’630km (10’950 miles)
In the morning we went to see the petroglyphs from the town. It was interesting. The weather seems to get slightly worse every day now. In the afternoon we relaxed in the hotel.
I was driving 60km/h (37mph) in a 40km/h (25 mph) zone when we went to town for dinner, and the police caught and stopped us. I had to give the cop the papers and followed him to his car. There were several people and one of them could speak some English. At the police car he explained me that he has to fill out a report! I tried my luck with a friendly smile and a “no, please not”. He then explained me that I also could give him simply 50$! I smiled and told him nicely that not even in Switzerland I would have to pay tis muchJ. After some friendly discussions and several “No no” and that I will be driving correctly from now on, he let me go without paying anythingJ, I was lucky!
October 20th 2011: Cholpon-ata – Karakol, Kyrgyzstan
Driven distance on October 20th 2011: 190km (120 miles)
Driven distance total: 17’820km (11’070 miles)
Continuing driving along the lake in direction Karakol. Karakol is a base point for trekking and skiing. But we are too late for trekking and too early for skiing.
Otherwise Karakol seems to be very nice and relaxed!
October 21st 2011: Around Karakol, Kyrgyzstan
Driven distance on October 21st 2011: 80km (50 miles)
Driven distance total: 17’900km (11’120 miles)
In the guidebook was a nice valley near Karakol mentioned, so let’s go! Pretty soon the road got small and adventurous! Almost at the beginning of the track was a local Tourguide on a motorcycle who came from the other direction. We talked for a short time. He checked out the Landrover and just said „it is a very bad road“. For the 16km (10 miles) it took us 2 ½ hours! On foot it is 4 hours. With some trouble we passed a hiker on the way upJ. On more then half of the trip, I had to use the reduction gearbox and we crawled up the road. On the way we had a big mud place with different options to cross. We even got stuck (with using the diff lock) and were sliding a bit uncontrolled around. The diesel tank has now a small dent and some mud landed on the roof. We then went with enough speed and the help of the diff lock through a longer mud passage (see picture). We weren’t the only vehicle up there, also a modified old Russian truck made it’s way with some tourists.
We met 4 other tourists and had a good time. I joined a Australian couple for a 2 hour hike in the area. The views and the nature was great! And finally I have seen a nice animal, an eagle was gliding nicely in the air above our heads. After the hike I enjoyed a bath in one of the hot springs up there. The trip down took us “only” 2 hours for the 16km (10 miles)! unbelievableJ.
October 22nd 2011: Around Karakol, Kyrgyzstan
Driven distance on October 22nd 2011: 70km (40 miles)
Driven distance total: 17’970km (11’170 miles)
Since the weather was again really nice like yesterday, we checked out another valley close to Karakol. On the way to the valley we have seen very nice red rock formations. Then I started another short 2 hour hike.
On the way back to Karakol we acted as a taxi. But this time we had a new record and 5 persons were in the Landrover, unbelievable. 3 mature women squeezed themselves in the back of the carJ!
October 23rd 2011: Karakol – Bokonbayevo, Kyrgyzstan
Driven distance on October 23rd 2011: 140km (90 miles)
Driven distance total: 18’110km (11’250 miles)
Unbelievable, we got up before 6AM! Reason for that was the weekly cattle market. It was a crazy but interesting chaos. Cows, sheep and horses were randomly mixed everywhere. Some of the persons were unloading their sheep out of a regular notchback car! Already at 7 in the morning people had their shots of vodka. We preferred a coffee instead.
Then we drove along the south border of lake Issyk-Kul until the village Bokonbayevo.
October 24th 2011: Bokonbayevo - Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan
Driven distance on October 24th 2011: 270km (170 miles)
Driven distance total: 18’380km (11’420 miles)
Almost the entire day it was raining and cloudy. In the afternoon we were again in the capital of Kyrgyzstan, Bishkek. First I picked up my passport with a new visa at the Iranian embassy. In the evening we granted ourselves something special to eat. In a good restaurant we had each a T-bone steak. With A1 steak sauceJ!
October 25th 2011: Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan
Driven distance on October 25th 2011: 70km (40 miles)
Driven distance total: 18’450km (11’460 miles)
We only went a little bit into Bishkek. Around midnight I started to go to the airport to pick up my friend Maryse from Switzerland. If you drive in Bishkek during the night, you have to use a bit more caution then during the day. Some of the drivers drive really drunk and even on green lights you have to check the other traffic. I learned this immediately when I had to stop on a green light because another car didn’t stopJ.
Maryse arrived on time at 2:15AM. Really nice time to pick up somebody from the airportJ.
October 26th 2011: Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan
Driven distance on October 26th 2011: 0km (0 miles)
Driven distance total: 18’450km (11’460 miles)
The entire day we didn’t do too much. We were still tired from the night before when we went to bed at 4AM after returning from the airport. In the afternoon we tried to call the Uzbek embassy to get an appointment for the next morning to get another visa for Uzbekistan. On the phone we asked the embassy employee if he speaks English. He explained us twice very unfriendly „I don’t speak English“ and hung up on us. Afterwards we tried to call again with the help of the Russian speaking receptionist of our hotel to get an appointment for the next day. Also after this call we were not sure if we had an appointment or not.
October 27th 2011: Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan
Driven distance on October 27th 2011: 0km (0 miles)
Driven distance total: 18’450km (11’460 miles)
In the morning at 10:15 we arrived at the Uzbek embassy. When it was our turn, the embassy guy came, kicked us out and said, “You are not on my list”. So far nobody was that unfriendly on the entire trip! But at least against everybody and not only against usJ.
In the afternoon we tried our luck with a travel agency that called for us for an appointment. Finally it worked out.
October 28th 2011: Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan
Driven distance on October 28th 2011: 10km (10 miles)
Driven distance total: 18’460km (11’470 miles)
Well, now the next try to visit the embassy. And actually it did work out and we could deposit our applications. But the guy from the embassy was as unfriendly as ever.
And now it was the first where we had real snowfall.
Finally around 4PM we went to a car mechanic. Since a few days the Landrover had some vibration because one of the u-joints was broken. We found a mechanic and the work began. I showed him the driveshaft and immediately he started measuring. After 5 minutes we took a taxi to buy a new spare part. Since Landrover is not really common in central Asia, we bought a new u-joint that was the closest to the one from my car. 2 ½ hours and 70$ later the Landrover was back in mint condition.
October 29th 2011: Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan
Driven distance on October 29th 2011: 0km (0 miles)
Driven distance total: 18’460km (11’470 miles)
It was once again time to visit a busy market. On the Market we bought only unnecessary crap! For example a calendar (in Russian of course) with beer drinking iguanas, according to the carJ.
October 30th & 31st 2011: Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan
Driven distance on October 30th & 31st 2011: 0km (0 miles)
Driven distance total: 18’460km (11’470 miles)
Those we didn’t do much else then re-arranging, re-packing and cleaning the Landrover for the continuous journey with Maryse.
November 1st 2011: Bishkek – Alplager, Kyrgyzstan
Driven distance on November 1st 2011: 60km (40 miles)
Driven distance total: 18’520km (11’500 miles)
At 7AM the return journey for Daniel has started. He will spend some days in Kazakhstan before he will return to Switzerland.
Since we definitely had more then enough from Bishkek, we continued the trip to some mountains in the area. We drove into the Ala Archa valley and did a 3 ½ hour hike. It already had quite some snow up there, so also the temperature was accordinglyJ. The place in the valley called „Alplager“ lies at an altitude of approx. 2100m (6900 feet). We then got a very simple room with a small ovenJ.
November 2nd 2011: Alplager – Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan
Driven distance on November 2nd 2011: 90km (60 miles)
Driven distance total: 18’610km (11’560 miles)
Since the weather was much better then the day before, we decided to do another small one hour trek in the Ala Archa valley. Before we went again to Bishkek, we drove into another valley to see it. Unfortunately we had to go again to Bishkek to get the visas for Uzbekistan. Surprisingly it worked out to get an appointment for the next day.
November 3rd 2011: Bishkek – Cholpon-Ata, Kyrgyzstan
Driven distance on November 3rd 2011: 270km (170 miles)
Driven distance total: 18’880km (11’730 miles)
Once again we were standing at 10AM in front of the Uzbek embassy with other tourists. Finally after 90 minutes we could get in and finally got our visas. Now nothing could hold us in Bishkek anymore! Next destination Cholpon-Ata. On the way there the police stopped us twice, once because passing a car in a non-passing zone and once for speeding! We got away with 6$ bribe money after bargaining and winingJ. The village Cholpon-Ata lies at the lake Issyk-Kul and is full of rich Kazak and Russian tourists during summer time. Since we are here in the off season we were absolutely the only tourists and were able to really enjoy the great view to the lake and the mountains!
November 4th 2011: Cholpon-Ata – Karakol, Kyrgyzstan
Driven distance on November 4th 2011: 160km (100 miles)
Driven distance total: 19’040km (11’830 miles)
This morning we enjoyed once again the mountain scenery and the lake. Afterwards we went to the only sight in the village, some Petroglyphs.
November 5th 2011: Around Karakol, Kyrgyzstan
Driven distance on November 5th 2011: 70km (40 miles)
Driven distance total: 19’110km (11’870 miles)
Once again it snowed a bit over night. We went in the morning to the Jeti-Öghüz valley. We have seen really nice red rock formations! Since we need some daily action, we drove up a small steep, sometimes muddy and snowy small track. Of course for the Landrover and the experienced driver no problem (Written by Maryse)J. We were then rewarded by a great mountain and red rock panorama!
Since it was a really nice sunny day, we figured, it is a good time to have some beers at the hotel. After dinner we tried to explore the nightlife of Karakol. Finally we ended up at a birthday party with a lot of vodka.
November 6th 2011: Around Karakol, Kyrgyzstan
Driven distance on November 6th 2011: 40km (20 miles)
Driven distance total: 19’150km (11’890 miles)
We got up before 7AM to visit the weekly cattle market. We had some difficulties to crawl out of the bed at this time, because the vodka from the night before was still in our systemJ.
Quickly we visited afterwards a wooden Russian Orthodox church.
At the moment we are on the lucky side with the weather. The sun is shining quite often, therefor we visited the nearby Karakol valley, where there is one of the few ski resorts of the country. The chairlifts were not yet working, but we were surprised about the relatively new equipment like snow making machines, ski-doo’s and slope-making machines (sorry for my EnglishJ). And by the way, the landscape was also great!J
November 7th 2011: Karakol – Bokonbayevo, Kyrgyzstan
Driven distance on November 7th 2011: 190km (120 miles)
Driven distance total: 19’340km (12’010 miles)
Before we drove further in direction Bokonbayevo, we went to the „valley of flowers“, of course without flowers in the winterJ. For our health we made a short morning hike and went back to the main road. We then have seen a sign on the road to a place called „fairy tale valley“. Sounds great, let’s go! We were surprised about the beauty of this valley! The whole area was full of rock formations in different colors and shapes! Simply fantastic! We met in the valley three Kyrgyz men and we got invited immediately to vodka... They said, drinking vodka is a „Kyrgyz tradition“J. There is really heavy vodka consumption going on in Kyrgyzstan. We continued our journey after an extensive visit to the „fairy tale valley“.
November 8th 2011: Karakol – Bokonbayevo, Kyrgyzstan
Driven distance on November 8th 2011: 380km (240 miles)
Driven distance total: 19’720km (12’250 miles)
Today we definitely spent unnecessarily too much time in the car. In the morning we wanted to go to a place called Naryn on side roads. More then one hour later we were back at the starting point since we couldn’t find the way. So we went back to the main roads! On the way we had the glorious idea to visit a salt lake, which was 12km (7 miles) off the main road. The way to the lake was rough and the lake itself was really nothing special.
Later on, at 3:30PM we were still 80km (50 miles) away from our destination Naryn, and we had the idea to visit the mountain lake Song-Köl. This lake is one of the most beautiful lakes in Kyrgyzstan, although almost not reachable after November because of the snow. Since it had relatively little snow, we thought it’s a good time to visit the lake. After 30km (20 miles) of the total 50km (35 miles) we ended up abruptly in lots of snow, which was blown by the wind on to the way. We then decided to turn around. On the way back to the main road we picked up 2 children, which otherwise had to walk 10km (6 miles). It is unbelievable to see how and where people are living in those mountains.
It was getting dark back on the main road to Naryn. The road across the 3030m (9970 feet) high pass was getting worse and worse and it even started to snow heavily.
Finally at 8 we arrived in Naryn and we had more then enough from driving.
November 9th 2011: Bokonbayevo – Kochkor, Kyrgyzstan
Driven distance on November 9th 2011: 170km (110 miles)
Driven distance total: 19’890km (12’360 miles)
Since we didn’t wanted to go back to Kochkor the same way as we came the day before, we wanted to take a smaller side road. We gave up because the terrible road condition! So we drove the same way back, again across the 3030m (9970 feet) mountain pass to Kochkor, where we found a great homestay.
November 10th 2011: Bokonbayevo – Kochkor, Kyrgyzstan
Driven distance on November 10th 2011: 220km (140 miles)
Driven distance total: 20’110km (12’500 miles)
In the morning we received a great breakfast at the homestay, so that we ate again sooooo much food! We were relatively quick in Bishkek, only about 3 hours it took us. As before in Bishkek, we were looking without any success for a cheap hotel, so we went to the place we stayed before. But this time we slept at the parking lot of the hotel in the Landrover after hours in the internet.